Soroca: Roma's capital city in Europe
Located on the west bank of the Dniester river in Northern Moldova, Soroca is a unique place in Europe. It is known as the Roma’s capital city in Europe. As a matter of fact, here Roma settled down permanently, and over time they began to fully consider themselves as Moldovan citizens, despite retaining the whole of their traditions.
Roma in Soroca live on a hilly neighbourhood that overlooks downtown. Their houses reproduce famous buildings, such as Moscow’s Bolshoi theatre, or Capitol Hill. These buildings appear extravagant, especially if compared to the surroundings, where dusty and mostly unpaved roads prevail. "People can find a bit of every corner of the planet here" explains “Gypsies' baron” Artur Cerari, untainted by stylistic concerns. With its lavish house roofs, the “Gipsy hill” has then become an unusual must-see. European tourists craving for post-Soviet exotism get mesmerized by Soroca’s unmatched architecture.
This Moldovan town is not an oasis of peace: anti-Roma prejudices and reciprocal misunderstandings are to be found here as well. Anyway, compared to the blatant hatred Roma groups are confronted by in wealthier European countries, Soroca cannot but stand out as a model of integration and mutual respect. “I have invited my colleagues from Western Europe to come over and see how our Romas citizens live here,” proudly states mayor Viktor Seu.
Photography in this work highlights Soroca’s special landscape and architecture; portraits, closeups and street photography reflect the everyday life in this community, where co-existence between different communities is the norm.
Our reportage shows both positive and negative stereotypes about Roma: nomadism, vivid colours, gestures, traditions, family. Despite their distinctive houses on the hill, Roma in Soroca share with their neighbours a common sense of place, shaped by a life in the outskirts.
